Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Giro nell' nord Italia!

I was grateful for the vaulted ceiling over my head as the blizzard raged less than two meters to my left. The arcaded streets of Bologna protected us from the elements and seemed to embrace me like a bird shelters her young with its wings. The harsh weather affected us little as we walked along the dedicated pedestrian sidewalk (a rarity in Roma) and peered into dozens of closed shops and restaurants. Many stores (especially family owned ones) close on Sundays and some even take Mondays off as well. As we walked I admired the charm of the city and soaked in the details around me.
As we rounded the corner I stopped, taken aback with surprise. Before me stood the tallest masonry structure in the world prior to modern day, the Asinelli Tower. It seemed to have come out of nowhere, jumping out at the last minute from an invisible hiding spot. Its sister, the Garisenda Tower, leaned precariously next to it as if it would topple over at any minute. By far the tallest thing in the city and its surrounding suburbs, it seemed impossible for something so narrow to be so tall. Even by today's standards it is impressive to say the least.
Our journey to the top was impossibly long. Every endless staircase terminated at a platform on top of which was another endless stair. And so the process repeated, the stairs becoming narrower, more slippery, and less stable the higher we went. Finally, as rays of light shone in from above, I knew we had made it to the top. The view was incredible and the snowballs we launched from the top traveled as far as four blocks, even making it over the dome of the Cathedral next door.
After taking 360 degrees worth of photos I came to the realization that the Garisenda tower was nowhere in sight! "Where's that other tower?" I said aloud.
"Down There." replied Dan standing next to me. I looked down and sure enough, the 160 foot sister tower was there, impossibly far below us.


Bologna was only one of 7 cities we traveled to. Although we may have only spent several hours there, it remains firmly rooted in my memories. Every city had its own character and personality. I personally enjoyed Venice the most. Even though it has been overrun by tourism in recent years, the urban fabric has not changed. The way the narrow pedestrian streets flow, jumping over canals by means of bridge and continuing to feed into one another is a novelty that has not and probably cannot be replicated. The entire city revolves around water, using it for everything from transportation to waste management. It is an incredibly complex, fascinating, and unique system. Around every blind corner there seems to be some special node waiting to be discovered.
Vicenza was a jewel of classical proportion and rational thought. Many of the great Andrea Palladio's buildings are located in and around the city and much of the city is clearly inspired by him.
Verona was a pleasant surprise. It is absolutely beautiful. Juliet's balcony is a must-see for couples (or anyone with a significant other). Castelvecchio was amazing and is a true Italian jewel that is highly underrated. Carlos Scarpa does a masterful job of uniting ancient with contemporary architecture. The entire museum is like an architectural playground which had every one of us running around like a child in a newly discovered McDonald's play place.
Florence was, well, Florence! Walking through the streets lined with vendors was an awesome experience. The Duomo is an architectural marvel and the many statues throughout the city are breathtakingly beautiful. I even got to see a piece of the cross of Jesus in the Basilica di San Lorenzo.
Como was a bit of a let down. It was snowing and terribly foggy, so neither the mountains nor the lake were visable.
Milan was interesting in that it is a very modern city in an ancient country. The hustle and bustle reminded me of New York, but the Duomo of Milano was a very firm reminder of where I was. It is an amazing basilica with all sorts of spires reaching up to the heavens, lavishly decorated with hundreds of statues, and awe inspiring works of art throughout the interior. I would have to consider it my favorite church... but lets wait until Paris before making that statement official.

-BJC

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